REBECCA GESSERT
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Costume Construction
(samples)

BECOMING SANTA CLAUS

Cutter, CHICAGO OPERA THEATER
The Queen's first look (Aurora Dress)  [Costume Design by Brenda Winstead]
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Mock-up made in poly chiffon and muslin from a combination of altering a commercial pattern for the skirt, draping a pattern for the bodice, and combo of draping flat-patterning the shirt/cape.
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Make alterations to pattern after fitting the mock-up and cut new pattern out of the garment fabrics, iridescent shantung and silk organza. 
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Sew the final garment together. Picture from final fitting. 
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The final dress after being sent to the dyer and bejeweled. 
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Prince Claus's final look. [Costume Design by Brenda Winstead]
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My task was to alter the collar, CF opening, and bottom edge of this store bought jacket to resemble the designer's vision. 
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Re-shaping, cutting and finishing the jacket's CF opening and lining. 
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Draping a stand collar pattern and cutting it out of fabric from the hem of the suit pants. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the finished jacket. 
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Another task for the Opera was draping a pattern for filling-in this store bought dress to give the singer more modesty. 

YOUNG FRANKENSTEIN

AMERICAN SCHOOL IN JAPAN

Elizabeth

Bias-cut dress (draped and patterned)
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Frau Blucher

The step-by-step process of building this piece, is detailed after the other pictures. 
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Inga

Inga's whimsical Roll in the Hay dress and apron built from scratch using a bodice sloper I made from the actor's measurements.
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Inga's Puttin' on the Ritz dress draped and patterned from a padded form matching the actresses measurements. Step-by-step process for building this garment is detailed after the other pictures. 
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Ensemble Slopers

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Set of bodice slopers made for the ensemble women made specifically to the actors' measurements.

Ensemble Dresses

I built all of the below villager dresses and their aprons from scratch, using the slopers shown above. 
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The same dresses with their "Happiest Town" aprons:
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Constructing a Garment (sample)

Day 1

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​Make body padding for the cis-gender male actor that will play Frau Blucher.

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"Rear view" - haha. 

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Drape a basic sloper (view 1)

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Draping a basic sloper (view 2)

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Transfer muslin markings to paper for basic sloper pattern.

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Mark edges and darts.

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Add S.A. and cut out of base fabric for blouse.

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Overlock edges of base blouse pieces pieces and let them hang overnight.

Day 2

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Sew in darts and tie off top ends of threads by hand. 

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Stitch blouse pieces together. 

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Iron seams open. 

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Cardigan from thrift store. 

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Cut off sleeves.

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​Use back of the cardigan and drape blouse insert design starting at neck.

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Mark edges of blouse insert design. 

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Cut away excess material.

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Hand baste grosgrain ribbon to edge of insert. 

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Skirt found from storage but it has a side zipper and Frau's garment must open center back.

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Use seam ripper to take out skirt waistband and zipper. 

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Re-set pleats in front.
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Re-set pleats in back.

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Stitch skirt to blouse. 

Day 3

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Make approximate pieces for high collar. 

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Drape pieces on form, sew together and attach to blouse. 

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Manipulate bodice sloper to make jacket bodice pattern. 

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Jacket bodice pattern after sloper manipulation.

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Draping the lapels and collar using a combination of paper and muslin.

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Make a basic sleeve sloper for the actor.

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Manipulate the sleeve sloper to make jacket sleeve pattern.
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Cut pattern pieces from velvet. 

Day 4

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Make and cut lining pieces
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Sew lining together
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Stitch lining to jacket and clip all curves. 
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Cut out sleeve detail from remnants of cardigan. 

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Attach the detail before the sleeve is sewn closed. 

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Hand stitch lining at neck.

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Nearly finished just need to put in closures and embellishments on collar.

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Full-length. 

Constructing Inga's Bias-cut Dress

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Make a stabilizing lining from the actor's sloper
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Mark the true bias on the mock-up fabric. 
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Drape the bodice on a dress form padded to match the actresses's measurements. 
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Mark the true bias on the garment fabric and use the mock-up to cut out the shape. 
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Sew the bodice and attach to the stabilizing lining. 
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Make a skirt pattern and cut out of garment fabric. Hang all pieces overnight and then add skirt and belt to bodice.
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  • Resume
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